House Wrap and Vapor Barrier TIPS
- House wraps go on outside surface of house under siding
- Vapor barriers go on warm side of wall – See Below
- WATCH videos below for help
- Great improvements in newer house wraps
- CLICK HERE to Get Tim’s FREE & FUNNY Newsletter!
Janice Rozier, who lives in Folkston, GA, sent me a fascinating email:
“I’m having an addition built onto my existing brick home. The question I have is about the house wrap vs vapor barrier.
The addition is framed wood structure with cement siding, (already installed), cathedral ceiling, and concrete floor. Do I need the vapor barrier or house wrap inside before drywall?
The insulation is not yet installed. I was told to buy Styrofoam Weathermate Plus house wrap, but they did not use it on the outside before the cement siding.
Thanks for taking the time to read this. All construction has stopped (another issue) so whenever you can get back to me is great. Thanks again.”
Well Janice, let’s discuss the two different materials as they are very different even though they may appear to the naked eye to be nearly identical products. Both usually come in large rolls and are thin coverings or wrappers.
House wraps are innovative building products that were introduced in the 1970’s into the marketplace. These products are designed to keep water away from a house’s wood framing members like an umbrella keeps you dry in a rain shower.
They’re a secondary defense against water damage.
The time-tested house wrap was asphalt-saturated felt paper. I’ve taken apart many a home that had felt paper under the siding and the felt did a marvelous job of stopping water from getting to the wood framing.
Felt paper is a fantastic product that can last well over 100 years on a home. The issue is the felt paper is more labor intensive to install as it comes in 3-foot-wide rolls and the house wrap comes in 9-foot-wide rolls.
Air & Water
The air-infiltration barriers also do a great job of stopping air infiltration that can drive up heating and cooling costs.
These products must be applied outside the structure over the wood oriented-strand board (OSB) or plywood that’s nailed to the wall studs. You then apply the finish exterior weather barrier, cement siding, brick, vinyl siding, wood siding, stone, etc. over the house wrap.
Air Infiltration Barrier Video
Watch this video to see one of the original air infiltration barriers being installed on a home.
Keep Getting Better
The second and third-generation house wraps are much better than the original ones in my opinion. The latest products have drainage channels built into them so any liquid water that somehow gets through to the house wrap easily can find its way down the wall and drips out to the ground below.
The first-generation products could trap water because the water couldn’t easily escape.
The house wraps are designed to allow water vapor to pass through them, but stop liquid water. They work just like fancy Gortex fabric in jackets and shoes.
It’s very important for any water vapor that makes it to the backside of an air barrier to keep moving so it gets to the air around the home.
Vapor barriers are used to stop water vapor, a gas, from entering a wall cavity where it can turn into liquid water if the water vapor contacts a cool or cold surface. If this happens and the water can’t evaporate rapidly back into a gas, wood rot, mold, and mildew become a reality.
My guess is you’ve seen condensation form on a cold surface when you place a cold can of beer or soda out on a picnic table in the summer. Within minutes, tiny drops of water are forming on the surface of the can.
After five or ten minutes, a puddle of water is at the base of the can. Imagine this happening on the inside of all your walls where you can’t see the water!
Vapor Barriers On Warm Side
Vapor barriers are put on the inside face of wall studs in cold climates and they’re put on the exterior of homes in hot and humid climates. You want the vapor barrier as far away from the cooler wall surface as possible. In hot humid climates, the cool side of the wall is the inside of the home that’s got air conditioning operating.
Vapor barriers didn’t come into existence until the 1960s when we saw the explosive growth of the plastics industry. Prior to that, there was no easy way to create a vapor barrier.
What’s more, on uninsulated houses that didn’t have air conditioning, a vapor barrier was not needed. The air circulation in the empty exterior wall cavity allowed any liquid water to evaporate and become a gas once again where it couldn’t cause rot, mildew or mold.
The bottom line, Janice, is you need to remove the cement siding and install some sort of house wrap that has the drainage channels. What’s more, you’re in an area of the country where you probably need to put the vapor barrier on the outside of your addition.
Talk with your building inspector and see what the building code mandates for your area for the placement of the vapor barrier.